Abbacchio alla romana, Roman Style Roast Lamb, or abbachio alla cacciatora as it is called by Romans themselves, is perhaps the most iconic main course for Easter dinner in the Eternal City.
The preparation is a simple pan roast in the Italian manner, with a twist. You cut up the lamb into serving pieces, then brown it in olive oil (or lard for true traditionalists) scented with garlic and herbs. You then simmer the lamb in a bit of white wine. So far, so typical of many Italian pan roasts. What makes this dish distinctive is its finish—a paste of garlic, anchovies and vinegar added in the final few minutes of cooking—which gives this dish intense umami and mild touch of acidity.
The challenge in reproducing this Roman classic elsewhere is the lamb itself. Abbacchio, the incredibly delicate baby milk-fed lamb so beloved by Romans, is hard to find outside central Italy. The lamb is so small (usually no more than 7 kilos, a bit over 15 pounds) that a whole abbacchio can be cut up into serving pieces, much like a chicken. But even if you can’t find lamb that young where you live, you can make a fair simulacrum of abbacchio alla romana with more mature lamb.
Abbacchio alla romana might not be quite as impressive as a whole roast leg of lamb. In fact, to be honest it comes up a bit short in the looks department. But for my money, you can’t find a tastier way to cook lamb. And more practical one if you’re preparing a meal for a smaller group.
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Here are a few more of the lamb dishes you’ll find at Memorie di Angelina, all wonderful choices for your Easter dinner:
Agnello brodettato (Roman Easter Lamb Stew)
Less well known than the classic abbacchio alla romana—but equally good if you ask me—is agnello brodettato, an Easter lamb stew. The term ‘brodettato‘— literally ‘in a little broth’—refers to braises that are thickened just before serving with a mixture of egg yolk and lemon juice. Also known as fricassea, the technique is wonderful with lamb, but it’s also widely used with chicken and vegetables too, including green beans and artichokes.
Agnello brodettato is traditionally eaten as a secondo or second course for Easter dinner. The recipe for agnello brodettato includes two ingredients with strong symbolic links to Easter: lamb, a symbol of the sacrifice of the crucifixion, and egg, while symbolizes life and the resurrection.
Agnello e piselli (Lamb and Peas)
I love second courses that pair meat and vegetable in a single dish. Not only is the combination invariably delicious, but it saves the cook from making an extra dish. In this speciality from Puglia and Campania, lamb—the ne plus ultra of spring meats—is paired with peas—one of the classic spring vegetables.
The lamb is browned then braised in a soffritto of onion sautéed in olive oil until almost tender, then peas are added to the braise until they, too, are tender. The result would be tasty on its own, but most recipes have you finish the dish cacio e uova style: eggs that have been beaten together with freshly grated Pecorino cheese are folded into the meat and peas until the heat of the pan sets the egg mixture, producing a creamy sauce. A substantial dish for sure, but one infused with lively flavors.
Costolette d’abbacchio fritte (Roman-Style Breaded Lamb Chops)
Romans also have a way with breaded lamb chops that is virtually Tuscan in its exquisite simplicity. This is a great choice if you prefer your lamb sauceless, and especially if you’re celebrating Easter as a couple or small group.
Ragù d’agnello e peperoni (Lamb and Red Pepper Ragù)
Lamb also makes a delicious pasta sauce. This one is from Abruzzo, home to many wonderful lamb dishes. This one I think is particularly appealing. The peppers lend a subtle sweetness that complements the taste of the lamb perfectly. It’s quite straightforward to prepare, as are many of the region’s dishes, and makes for a nice change from the usual sugo di carne.