Orata alla barese

Sea Bream Bari Style, a dish that breaks the "rule" against mixing fish and cheese

The sea is never too far away in Puglia, and seafood is everywhere—nowhere more so than its capital and principal port of Bari. So it should come as no surprise that orata alla barese or Sea Bream Bari Style, is one of the city’s signature dishes.

Orata alla barese riffs off the classic and uber-popular oven-roasted fish on a bed of potatoes. But here the fish not only gets a bed to rest on but a protective potato “blanket” as well. And then there’s an even more interesting twist … pecorino cheese!? That may come as a surprise to many of you Italian food aficionados, since one of the cardinal “rules” of Italian cookery is that fish and cheese don’t mix.

But here’s the exception that proves the rule—and it works beautifully. The pecorino doesn’t clash with the delicate taste of the fish as you might expect. In fact, assuming you have a light touch, the finished dish doesn’t taste cheesy at all. The pecorino lends an extra depth of flavor that’s absolutely delicious and yet hard to identify. It reminds me of the way anchovies are added to sautéed greens or certain pasta dishes without lending scarcely any fishiness.

Sea bream is a wonderful fish, with a delicate flavor akin to red snapper and an appealingly silky texture. It’s prized in Puglia and indeed all over Italy, as well as elsewhere in Europe and, as I understand it, in parts of Asia as well. For some reason, it’s under-appreciated in the US and can be hard to find here. It’s well worth seeking out. But in a pinch, you can always substitute another fish (see the Notes below for details).

And those potatoes! They soak up all the flavors of the fish, oil and seasonings, making them for many—including me—the best part of the dish.

Orata alla barese needs no accompaniment, but I like to follow it with a mixed green salad and then some fruit, for a light but very tasty and satisfying lunch or supper. And although it looks fancy—fa bella figura, as the Italians say—the dish takes under an hour and little effort to make, so it’s an equally fine solution for a family meal or a fancy dinner party.