Serpette

Delightful 'little snake' cookies from Domenica Marchetti's superb new cookbook, Italian Cookies

Dear readers,

These delightful cookies called serpette or ‘Little Snakes’ are from Domenica Marchetti’s superb new cookbook, Italian Cookies.

Being a near non-baker, my knowledge of the subject is pretty much limited to a few of the ‘greatest hits’ like cantucci, mostaccioli and, of course, Angelina’s taralli dolci, which in our family we used to call ‘Nana’s cookies’. I had a lot to learn, so when I heard Domenica had just published a book on the subject, you know I snapped it up immediately. And ever since I’ve been practically devouring the recipes in her fascinating book, no doubt the most comprehensive treatment of the subject you’ll find in English.

With Domenica’s kind permission, I’m sharing with you one of her recipes. It was a difficult choice, as there are quite a few I want to try out. Of course, it had to be something I hadn’t blogged about before. And something easy enough for a neophyte like me.

When I stumbled on serpette, I knew I’d hit pay dirt. The recipe comes from from my erstwhile hometown of Rome, or more precisely from the hilltop town of Monte Porzio Catone in the nearby Castelli Romani, an area perhaps best known for Castel Gandolfo, the Pope’s summer residence, and to foodies for Ariccia’s excellent porchetta. It’s also home to some gorgeous white wines. But I digress…

Serpette remind me quite a bit of those taralli dolci Angelina used to make, though serpette are rather more delicate as they are enriched with butter rather than oil, and scented with orange and lemon zest rather than anisette. And of course, serpette are formed into a snake-ish S shape that lends them their name. Light and crumbly, sweet but not too sweet, they are definitely my kind of cookie!

Like my Nana’s cookies, serpette are delicious on their own, but even better enjoyed inzuppate—dunked in coffee or a sweet wine, classically the local Cannellino di Frascati.

Happy cooking!

Frank

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Taralli dolci, or “Nana’s Cookies”

This is a recipe near and dear to my heart. When I was a kid, our family called these “Nana’s Cookies”, and I really thought that only my Nana made them. Well, when I moved to Italy I found out that these ring-shaped cookies are a typical Campanian delicacy called taralli dolci, or sweet taralli. Like serpette, they are marvelous dunked in your morning coffee or after dinner dunked in sweet wine.

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Cantucci

Cantucci, also known as biscotti di Prato, are perhaps the best known of Italian cookies. Made from a simple dough of flour, sugar and egg, into which whole almonds are folded, they are baked twice: once in cylindrical ‘logs’ to cook on the outside, then cut into sliced and baked again to cook on the inside and dry out. (The most common Italian word for cookie is indeed biscotto which means twice cooked.)

These cookies are rather hard and dry, but that’s the way they actually should be. Cantucci are classically served as a dessert, paired with the Tuscan dessert wine called vin santo for dunking. The cantucci readily soak up the wine, softening them. The flavor combination is wonderful.

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Mostaccioli napoletani

While the above cookies are rather lean and meant for dunking, here’s something richer and more festive: mostaccioli, made with a dough flavored with sugar, cocoa, orange and spices, and studded with chopped almonds, then cut into rhombus shaped cookies, which are baked ever so briefly and finally dipped in melted bittersweet chocolate.

With their chocolate glaze on the outside, soft and moist highly fragrant insides with just a bit of crunch from the almonds, mostaccioli are a delight. Traditional for Christmas, this is one treat can enjoy year round.

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Brutti ma buoni

Brutti ma buoni, meaning “ugly but good”, is the jocular name Italians give to these nut and meringue cookies originally from north-central Italy (their precise origin is disputed) but now popular all over the country.

I have to admit, the rather lumpy and misshapen cookies that emerge from your oven might well deserve to be called ugly. But they are also definitely good. Very good, in fact, when properly made. Crispy on the outside and delightfully soft and chewy on the inside, I find them downright addictive.